By Catherine Watson
PHILIPPA (Pip) Sibley has earned a reputation as one of Melbourne's finest chefs. So what’s she doing running a pizza and pasta restaurant in Wonthaggi?
The answer starts and ends with Bet Sibley, her mother (and a dear friend of the writer and the Post). Pip pays tribute to the woman who taught her not just how to cook but how to enjoy feeding other people.
PHILIPPA (Pip) Sibley has earned a reputation as one of Melbourne's finest chefs. So what’s she doing running a pizza and pasta restaurant in Wonthaggi?
The answer starts and ends with Bet Sibley, her mother (and a dear friend of the writer and the Post). Pip pays tribute to the woman who taught her not just how to cook but how to enjoy feeding other people.
"Mum was my number one audience, number one fan. I loved cooking for her." |
“Mum used to hold incredible dinner parties,” she says. “She got into the whole romance of it. She was making sushi in the `70s and pigeon pies, cooking and serving a whole lamb. She was way ahead of her time. Very inspiring.
“I used to hang onto her apron strings from as early as I can remember. We were kindred spirits on food and entertaining. She was my number one audience, number one fan. I loved cooking for her."
Last year, as Bet's health declined, Pip returned to Wonthaggi to care for her. “Fortunately she never lost her appetite!”
While she was caring for Bet, an unexpected opportunity emerged. Ronni's, the long-established Graham Street restaurant, needed a fresh direction. Over countless conversations, owner Sandy Kuble challenged Pip to reimagine the venue.
"Bet had always wanted me to open a restaurant down here," she says.
Ronni’s opened in late January, just a few weeks after Bet died. Then Pip faced a choice: return to Melbourne's busy restaurant scene or stay on and run the restaurant. She chose to stay.
“It's just far enough from the city, I think. It’s country living with just the right amount of urban. It’s perfect for me. I’ve got everything I need, I walk everywhere, I feel safe and kind of relaxed here. And there's a job here for me, which is important at my age.”
Ronni's Renaissance
Over the years Pip has owned restaurants, including Est Est Est in South Melbourne, and worked in countless kitchens. More recently she helped lead the kitchen at Pinotta in North Fitzroy before it closed last year. She still does special catering events in the city.
“I've been a bit of a fixer: moving in and fixing restaurants. I call this a relaunch: Ronni’s Renaissance.”
“I used to hang onto her apron strings from as early as I can remember. We were kindred spirits on food and entertaining. She was my number one audience, number one fan. I loved cooking for her."
Last year, as Bet's health declined, Pip returned to Wonthaggi to care for her. “Fortunately she never lost her appetite!”
While she was caring for Bet, an unexpected opportunity emerged. Ronni's, the long-established Graham Street restaurant, needed a fresh direction. Over countless conversations, owner Sandy Kuble challenged Pip to reimagine the venue.
"Bet had always wanted me to open a restaurant down here," she says.
Ronni’s opened in late January, just a few weeks after Bet died. Then Pip faced a choice: return to Melbourne's busy restaurant scene or stay on and run the restaurant. She chose to stay.
“It's just far enough from the city, I think. It’s country living with just the right amount of urban. It’s perfect for me. I’ve got everything I need, I walk everywhere, I feel safe and kind of relaxed here. And there's a job here for me, which is important at my age.”
Ronni's Renaissance
Over the years Pip has owned restaurants, including Est Est Est in South Melbourne, and worked in countless kitchens. More recently she helped lead the kitchen at Pinotta in North Fitzroy before it closed last year. She still does special catering events in the city.
“I've been a bit of a fixer: moving in and fixing restaurants. I call this a relaunch: Ronni’s Renaissance.”
The first thing she did was get rid of a coffee machine and drinks cabinet that blocked the window view. Now when people walk past Ronni’s they look into an inviting, warm interior with checked red and white tablecloths.
Inside, diners can watch the action around the very busy pizza oven. Around the walls are Pip’s own drawings of heritage tomatoes.
The second thing to go was the sprawling and somewhat confused menu. In its place is a tighter Italian offering: pizza, pasta and desserts. "The menu’s small and very fresh. I do specials every day to stop myself getting bored."
Her recipes focus on fresh local produce and an immense curiosity about tastes and combinations. She is a forager who can sometimes be seen scouring the neighbourhood for stinging nettles and other tasty weeds or wandering the back lanes of Wonthaggi sampling the fruit that’s hanging over back fences.
Ronni’s new-style pizzas reflect the playful curiosity that has characterised her cooking career. One of the surprise hits is a vegetarian pizza called the Green and Gold with parmesan cream, roasted pumpkin, zucchini, olives, green chilli and feta.
Inside, diners can watch the action around the very busy pizza oven. Around the walls are Pip’s own drawings of heritage tomatoes.
The second thing to go was the sprawling and somewhat confused menu. In its place is a tighter Italian offering: pizza, pasta and desserts. "The menu’s small and very fresh. I do specials every day to stop myself getting bored."
Her recipes focus on fresh local produce and an immense curiosity about tastes and combinations. She is a forager who can sometimes be seen scouring the neighbourhood for stinging nettles and other tasty weeds or wandering the back lanes of Wonthaggi sampling the fruit that’s hanging over back fences.
Ronni’s new-style pizzas reflect the playful curiosity that has characterised her cooking career. One of the surprise hits is a vegetarian pizza called the Green and Gold with parmesan cream, roasted pumpkin, zucchini, olives, green chilli and feta.
The Green and gold "I thought that would be a sleeper, but it's very popular."
Another favourite is the Azzamatta – roughly translated as "what's the matter?" – featuring pork belly, pancetta, roasted peppers, fresh pineapple, smoked mozzarella and pickled onions.
"It's a little bit of a play on sweet and sour pork," she says. "And that's crazy, it goes off."
And if customers insist on a meat lover’s pizza? "We send them across the road to Jeronimo's.” She smiles. That’s another of Sandy’s businesses.
Florida time
One surprise has been the quality of ingredients available in Bass Coast. "I didn't think I'd be able to get produce like this down here." Through specialist suppliers she sources capocollo, smoked mozzarella, premium anchovies and artisan cheeses that would not look out of place in Melbourne's best restaurants.
While the ingredients may be sophisticated, Pip has learned that Wonthaggi dining habits are a little different. "They come out early," she says. "I call it Florida time. We've generally finished cooking by 7.30pm."
Not that she's complaining. At 58, after four decades on her feet, she’s no longer interested in being part of Melbourne's immensely competitive fine dining scene.
Another favourite is the Azzamatta – roughly translated as "what's the matter?" – featuring pork belly, pancetta, roasted peppers, fresh pineapple, smoked mozzarella and pickled onions.
"It's a little bit of a play on sweet and sour pork," she says. "And that's crazy, it goes off."
And if customers insist on a meat lover’s pizza? "We send them across the road to Jeronimo's.” She smiles. That’s another of Sandy’s businesses.
Florida time
One surprise has been the quality of ingredients available in Bass Coast. "I didn't think I'd be able to get produce like this down here." Through specialist suppliers she sources capocollo, smoked mozzarella, premium anchovies and artisan cheeses that would not look out of place in Melbourne's best restaurants.
While the ingredients may be sophisticated, Pip has learned that Wonthaggi dining habits are a little different. "They come out early," she says. "I call it Florida time. We've generally finished cooking by 7.30pm."
Not that she's complaining. At 58, after four decades on her feet, she’s no longer interested in being part of Melbourne's immensely competitive fine dining scene.
“I love the non-monotony of cooking and the performance of it. You prep all day – under the pump, we call it – and then service is like the big show." |
"I've been cooking professionally for 40 years, which is enough," she says. “I've been on my feet for that long. A lot of my contemporaries’ knees have gone.”
Sounds like a tough gig?
“I think sitting down staring at a computer all day would be a tough life!
“I love the non-monotony of cooking and the performance of it. You prep all day – under the pump, we call it – and then service is like the big show. And then it's all over, it's done. Nothing drags on. I think it's that kind of intense thing that I love”.
So the show goes on. While she’s on a smaller stage in Wonthaggi, she’s still cooking creatively. Ronni’s kitchen is her happy space. She comes to work early, puts on some music and gets to work chopping, stirring, tasting.
To her own great surprise, Wonthaggi feels like home. “I’m just trusting my feelings,” she says. Bet would have approved.
Sounds like a tough gig?
“I think sitting down staring at a computer all day would be a tough life!
“I love the non-monotony of cooking and the performance of it. You prep all day – under the pump, we call it – and then service is like the big show. And then it's all over, it's done. Nothing drags on. I think it's that kind of intense thing that I love”.
So the show goes on. While she’s on a smaller stage in Wonthaggi, she’s still cooking creatively. Ronni’s kitchen is her happy space. She comes to work early, puts on some music and gets to work chopping, stirring, tasting.
To her own great surprise, Wonthaggi feels like home. “I’m just trusting my feelings,” she says. Bet would have approved.