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A historic portrait of Paweł Edmund Strzelecki, the Polish-born explorer whose 1840 expedition crossed Gippsland with the guidance of Aboriginal knowledge.

By Ian McFarland

IN 1840, a Polish-born scientist named Paweł Edmund Strzelecki pushed south from New South Wales, through dense, unmapped forest, guided at every turn by Aboriginal knowledge, until he reached the shores of what is now known as Western Port.

​His expedition was one of the earliest European journeys through this part of Gippsland, and it left behind a name that still marks the ranges, a walking track, and a story that has rarely been told in full.
Almost two centuries later, a proposal has gone to Bass Coast and South Gippsland authorities to investigate a Strzelecki Way Heritage Walking Trail, a route retracing elements of that 1840 journey and linking Western Port with the Strzelecki Ranges. It's a modest idea on paper: a trail, some signage, a handful of interpretive stops.

Its authors are quick to say the trail isn't simply about celebrating one explorer's achievement. It's about telling a fuller, more honest story of this landscape — one that begins long before Strzelecki ever set foot in it.


Strzelecki wasn't the only explorer whose name is stitched into this landscape. Angus McMillan, the Scottish pastoralist often credited with “opening up” Gippsland, worked the same frontier only a few years later — and his legacy could hardly be more different.

Where Strzelecki's journals describe genuine curiosity about Aboriginal culture and his dependence on Aboriginal guides to survive the terrain, McMillan's name is now tied to some of the darkest chapters of Gippsland's colonial history. Historians link him to the violent dispossession of the Gunaikurnai people and to frontier massacres, including the killings remembered at Warrigal Creek. That history is significant enough that places once named in his honour — including the former McMillan federal electorate and the McMillan Strait — have since been renamed.

Strzelecki was no saint by modern standards; like most Europeans of his era, he believed in the inevitability of European “progress”. But there is no evidence he took part in, or encouraged, violence against Aboriginal people — and his writings record language, customs and land management with genuine interest rather than contempt. Later in life he grew openly critical of how settlement was treating Indigenous communities.

That contrast — an explorer who listened, against one remembered for violence — gives the proposed trail a rare opening: not to sanitise history, but to tell it properly, using Strzelecki's comparatively less destructive path as a doorway into the harder story of what followed.
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The Corinella memorial plaque, above, with a later addition below. Photos: Libby Skidmore.

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Organisers are careful to describe the Strzelecki Way as more than an “explorer trail”. Long before 1840, the country it would traverse was already known intimately — named, cared for and travelled by Aboriginal people for tens of thousands of years. Strzelecki's expedition depended entirely on that knowledge simply to survive.

The proposal calls for interpretation along the trail to be co-designed with Traditional Owners, not developed about them from a distance. Traditional Owner groups would decide which stories are shared, how they're told, and which sites are appropriate for visitors to encounter at all.
"A trail is something everyone can walk, long before they can picture everything it might one day connect to.”
​Strzelecki Trail proposal
Framed this way, the trail becomes less a monument to a single explorer and more an invitation to walk through layered histories: Country before colonisation, a brief era of contact and mutual dependency, the rapid and often brutal change that followed, and the continuing culture and connection of First Nations communities today. As the proposal itself puts it: “This is not simply the story of one explorer. It is the story of Country.”

The walking trail is the proposal on the table now, but its authors already see it as a beginning rather than an endpoint. Positioned as the “spine” of the Western Port–Strzelecki landscape, existing trails, reserves and heritage sites become natural “branches” — turning a single track into a much larger regional network, in the spirit of Spain's Camino de Santiago.

​The immediate proposal is for the Bass Coast section of the Strzelecki Trail to be incorporated in the council's Tracks and Trails Strategy.
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The Gurdies Nature Conservation Reserve — one of the coastal “branches” envisaged as part of the Strzelecki Way Heritage Walking Trail.

To the west, branches could link the Lang Lang, Jam Jerrup and Grantville foreshores with a future Western Port National Park. To the north, the trail could connect with the Great Southern Rail Trail, opening a corridor through Nyora, Loch, Korumburra, Leongatha and Koonwarra to Foster and Port Welshpool. In Korumburra, walkers could follow a dedicated “Strzelecki Discovery Walk” past the town's own monument to the explorer and the Coal Creek heritage precinct.

Further east, the vision reaches the Grand Strzelecki Track, already a 100-kilometre network linking Morwell and Tarra-Bulga National Parks through cool temperate rainforest. Stitched together, the network could eventually run from Western Port's coastline to Tarra-Bulga's rainforest gullies, a coast-to-forest journey through some of Gippsland's richest natural and cultural landscapes.

Longer term, supporters believe the trail corridor could also support landscape-scale reforestation already being discussed for the region, improving bushfire resilience, restoring wildlife habitat and offsetting carbon, through voluntary land acquisition rather than compulsion.

For now, though, the focus stays firmly on the walking trail itself: a modest, tangible first step that could, over time, grow into something far larger. As one supporter put it: “You have to start somewhere. A trail is something everyone can walk, long before they can picture everything it might one day connect to.”

Ian McFarland is one of those proposing a Strzelecki Way Heritage Walking Trail.
5 Comments
Tim Herring - 3 weeks ago
It sounds like a great idea and one which can be done in stages - as this short article proposes.
Starting in The Gurdies on the shores of Western Port and connecting to Nyora and the rail trail is do-able.
From there you can use the rail trail to make an easy, traffic free line makes sense. I think the key is to use as few roads with traffic as possible.
Ian, if you need any assistance, I would be keen to help. Catherine has all my contact details.
Meryl & Hartley Tobin - 3 weeks ago
An interesting article and proposal, thanks, Ian.

Great to hear “the proposal calls for interpretation along the trail to be co-designed with Traditional Owners, not developed about them from a distance”. However, maybe that involvement should include them having a say in the name of the trail. After all, Strzelecki was dependent on his indigenous guide Charley Tarra in following the track he did. Without Charley’s indigenous heritage and knowledge gained from a culture spanning thousands of years, the so-called Strzelecki heritage walking trail would not exist in this form.

As children we heard no indigenous people speak of their history until 1954 or 5 when one of us heard Pastor Doug Nicholls call for a fair go for his people. In 1970 we did our first trip around Australia. That really woke us up to our Aboriginal past and how Aboriginal people had been treated and were being treated. Thank goodness many Australians now recognise the right of traditional owners to their voice and to truth-telling in our history.
Stanley Pereira - 3 weeks ago
Hi Meryl & Hartley. I am working with Ian on developing this proposal. We concur with your views wholeheartedly, and your proposition re Charley Tarra is especially resonant with the guiding principles of this proposed trail. Of course, multiple stakeholders and stakeholder-groups are likely to be involved, who will all have a view on naming. Rest assured that "Strzelecki Trail" is a working name only at this stage, as such it is by no means "the name." The actual name will be determined much later in this process (once Council is fully behind it; Feasibility has been asssessed etc.).
Meryl & Hartley - 3 weeks ago
Terrific, thanks, Stanley. After more than two centuries of non-indigenous occupation, showing respect, acknowledgment of country and truth-telling in such ways as you are doing demonstrates how we can move on, albeit in slow steps.










how to move on.
Joao Garcia - 3 weeks ago
I have contributed to and fully support this well-deserved proposed walking trail. It would provide locals with kilometres of preserved landscape to explore, photograph and enjoy, while also highlighting the council’s lack of commitments to walking paths around the Gurdies and Corinella Bay. This is a significant project that should be considered as the “Tarra & Strzelecki Walking Trail”, paying respect to our present and eldest Indigenous communities in their heritage ancestral land. I look forward to celebrating its opening with Mr Ian McFarland.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e99hZBMBYeM